A bit of home

The only ways to stay sane in a city like Tokyo (or um, Japan) is to a) keep yourself surrounded with good friends, b) do small daily things that give you some kind of routine, c) get a taste of home, d) indulge in the good things in life and e) take frequent small trips.

In an effort to keep myself grounded, I did all of the aforementioned, and it does help, combined with a daily dose of exercise- running, in my case. I went out to the trendy, American-style cafe Brooklyn Parlor in Shinjuku, where I met with the boys behind the excellent Tokyo Scum Brigade over foie gras burgers and strong Brooklyn black chocolate stout. It was nice to chat with like-minded people, and it's always amazing to meet them after living for a few years in Japan, as you continually meet cool new people- something I had missed when I lived back home after Korea.

I also started reading more Japanese magazines, and a friend of mine introduced me to Casa Brutus, which has a thick, stylish issue all about Tokyo this month. It was such a treat to read (or rather, decipher) with a latte and cupcake. In other news, I moved my futon downstairs, as sleeping in the loft got too hot.

The icing on the cake was a visit from a friend from Montreal, the little brother of one of my closest friends, which brought back so many memories. The evening started with a delicious traditional all-tofu course meal at Ume no Hana in a private dining room, followed by a few street drinks and party hopping in Shibuya. I hadn't been around that scene for several months, but it was fun to dip my toes back into it, and to realize that well, I don't miss it at all. The night ended with karaoke, which was the best part- I absolutely love karaoke, and even though I never feel like going, I get sucked into it and refuse to leave.

Now I just need to take a small trip and I'll feel sane again.

Back in the scene, at the new Beat Cafe

Family portrait before the party started

Sometimes I dress like I work in a library

Soy latte + lemon cupcake

This is what a foie gras burger looks like

Click here to see what Tokyoites are wearing this spring,
my piece for MTV Japan (MTV 81)

Teenage Stuff

It's funny how some things I used to love as a teenager are now what my life (and career) is about. I remember spending countless hours in my room, flipping through the pages of magazines, such as Seventeen and (the now-defunct) YM, and keeping piles and piles of them, collecting pretty much every single issue and closely studying them. That's also how I brushed up on my English, although I now graduated to reading The New Yorker and Monocle, my two favourites.

Funnily I now write for magazines, and I'm happy being obsessed with them somehow paid off. Watching hours of music videos on loop also turned into something tangible, as I'm now (excitedly) a part of the team at MTV Japan, covering all things fashion related. This was an adolescent dream for me, even though we didn't even have MTV in Canada (nudge to Much Music and Musique Plus).

And speaking of teenage dreams, I also got to meet Jad Fair (of the band Half Japanese), Norman Blake (Teenage Fanclub) and Ken Stringfellow at an art exhibit I wrote about for Tokyo Weekender. I highly recommend checking out Jad Fair's paper-cutting exhibit if you're in Tokyo, at the most charming art gallery I have ever seen. The gallery is called Hiromart, and is located next to the river, on a peaceful street. I felt quite star-struck to be surrounded by all those nineties icons, and feel funny at the idea of Jad Fair flipping through the pages of Tokyo Weekender.

Then again, I must have been a strange teenager, being into all that kind of music most of my peers didn't care for. Some things never change I guess, but I'm glad it translated well into my life path.

Jad Fair "Powerful Love" Exhibit
with myself in the background, how artsy

Every week I buy fresh flowers for my apartment.
This week's theme is "campagnard"

I bought another box of 7 doughnuts just to get this Pon de Lion plate.
I only ate one, gave the 6 others away.

The Great Burger in Harajuku is seriously GREAT!
Why have I waited so long to go? OH MY GOD.

Coffee and Cicada

After a less-than-stellar week, I managed to lift up my spirits a bit, and somehow things are looking much better. Living abroad, sometimes it's hard to pinpoint what's bothering me, but I always snap out of it with the help of simple pleasures.

So far, I've had a late afternoon lunch of tartines at Le Pain Quotidien (my favourite café in Tokyo, with a gorgeous view of Tokyo tower), I had sparkling wine, hummus, pita and delectable crab cakes in the garden of the stylish Cicada in Aoyama (my new favourite eatery!), I read a book in French, I went running twice already, I watched Chungking Express, I listened to the Shout Out Louds, Neutral Milk Hotel and Sonic Youth on repeat, I chatted with a dear friend back in Montreal, got an email and photos from my mom, had a much-needed girlie catch-up with my closest friend in Tokyo (who always makes everything better), exchanged emails with Isabel in London, rode my bicycle across town with a huge container of caramel popcorn and a Pon de Lion plate in the basket, stupidly left my bicycle unlocked with key in on the side of Koshu-Kaido (a busy road in Tokyo) for three hours and it wasn't stolen, planned some firefly festivals outings, and bought myself some fresh flowers.

I feel sane again.

That makes up for the taste.

It's May

And with May comes Golden Week, that (nearly) week-long holiday that has all the trains and highways crowded, and that leaves Tokyo half-empty (and half-filled with tourists). My best Golden Week was undoubtedly my very first one in Japan, that time I escaped my quiet town in Shikoku to have a whirlwind debauchery in Tokyo, Osaka, Kyoto and Nara. I vividly remember coining that phrase, "Marugame smells of rice fields and boredom" upon returning from that epic holiday.

My other Golden Weeks over the years paled in comparison, and this one was just as blah- probably the worst I've had overall, because I didn't have a single day off. It put me in a bit of a sour mood, and for once, I wish I could escape the madness of Tokyo to smell the rice fields and boredom, just for a few days. No matter how much I love what I do for a living, I feel quite stressed out lately with all the changes I've had in my life and I don't think I'm doing completely well at anything at all in my life. I feel like I'm failing at being a friend, a girlfriend, a daughter, and even an employee. I miss writing this blog regularly, I miss running daily, and I miss baking. I miss traveling around Japan and seeing all the beauty and quirks it has to offer- the only sights I'm seeing lately are concrete buildings, crowded trains and my computer screen.

End of my rant.

Here are some colourful things that slightly make everything better:

Children's Day floating carps near Yokohama, so pretty

And, the Prince is back. Everything makes sense again.

Two Princes, loud prints, and energy drinks

Kyary Pamyu Pamyu's band-aid collection 

Marc by Marc Jacobs slap bracelet- how retro!

Homemade breakfast

Flirting at Starbucks... Ha!

The Hello Kitty edition doughnuts at Mr Donut

Late afternoon Bellini's with lovely Judith!

My new obsession- slightly better than Nutella

Eye exams in Japan

After over three years living in Japan, I finally went for my first eye exam here. I wear contact lenses, and even though I came from Canada equipped with a supply to last me nearly a year, I eventually ran out... yet managed to avoid an awkward eye exam in Japanese. With the help of a few clicks, Google Translate and a quick payment at the convenience store, I was able to order some contact lenses through a Japanese website called Lensmode. I highly recommend it if you know your exact prescription and know your vision hasn't changed, but it's best to get regular eye exams to adjust the prescription and make sure everything is fine.

Last weekend, I somehow found myself with a new pair of "kawaii" frames, courtesy of a special promotion at the Kawaii Matsuri I covered. The whole deal was free of charge, so I decided to take the plunge and get an eye exam. I was a bit worried as any kind of medical procedure makes me nervous, but this was much, much easier than I thought.

In case you're wondering, turns out you only need the ability to read hiragana in order to successfully complete an eye exam (unless you go to an English-speaking eye doctor in say, Roppongi, but there's no excuse to not read hiragana if you've been in Japan for over six months). A few basic Japanese expressions like 'up' and 'down', 'left' and 'right' won't hurt to know either. I recommend the eyeglass chain shop Zoff- where you can get an exam and leave with prescription glasses or contact lenses in less than one hour. It's the only one I've tried, but I was happy with the service and efficiency.

Prescription eye glasses and contact lenses are extremely cheap in Japan- finally something that is more affordable than back home, so stock up on cool frames and contacts while you're here. I haven't worn glasses for nearly five years, but they're a welcome break from itchy contact lenses, even though they make me look extra serious. I guess it's a good thing- maybe I look more like a writer.

Kyary Pamyu Pamyu

If you live in Japan, you've most likely heard of Kyary Pamyu Pamyu, unless you live under a rock. If you don't live in Japan, chances are you aren't familiar with her name, but be prepared to be.

She's a phenomenon in Japan- not only in the kawaii world, but everywhere else. Her real name is Takemura Kiriko, and she started out as a fashion model for Harajuku-style magazines, then suddenly released a hit song that came with a psychedelic trip of a video, and she's now one of the biggest pop stars in the country. She also released her own line of false eyelashes, for those interested.

Her costumes are over-the-top, gravity-defying designs, her videos are a dizzying spiral into some kind of candy land, and her music is robotic, sugary and oh-so-catchy. Most of her songs have very simple titles, such as "PonPonPon", "Candy Candy", and "Fashion Monster". I know this sounds weird coming from the mouth of a devoted Sonic Youth and The Smiths fan, but I love Kyary Pamyu Pamyu.

I can't stop watching her videos, there must be something they put in it to get people hooked. I saw her perform live yesterday at the aptly named Kawaii Matsuri (thrown by her management company, who else), and despite my vow to only stick around for two songs, I stayed until the very end.

I also had the chance to be interviewed on national Japanese TV about kawaii culture and the whole Kyary Pamyu Pamyu sensation- I did a terrible job fumbling on the word "popularized" (hey, I'm French), but it was fun to watch afterwards.

Here's your introduction to Kyary Pamyu Pamyu- get your fill of rainbows and ribbons:

PonPonPon

 My personal favourite, Ninjyari Bang Bang   

Looking quite serious discussing 'kawaii' culture.
The upper caption says I'm media from Canada

Kawaii Overload

Kawaii is perhaps the Japanese word you'll hear the most in Japan, and even though it simply means "cute", it is used for an endless string of subjects- animals, clothes, interior design, hairstyles, food, and human beings. 
I have a love/hate relationship with the whole kawaii culture in Japan. As much as I love cute things like childish characters, feminine clothing, ribbons, kittens and puppies, I hate how much and how loosely this term is used. Just going shopping in a clothing store, I hear enough 'kawaiiiiiiii' 's (mostly shrieked by girls, but hey, boys use it too) to make my head spin. I believe there are words, other than cute, to describe clothes. How about beautiful, elegant, chic, stylish, snazzy, sophisticated? Most of those have a Japanese translation, so unless those girls dropped out of school at the elementary level, there is no excuse to stick to one word for every single thing in sight.
Today marked the pinnacle of kawaii-ness as I attended the Kawaii Matsuri (Kawaii Festival) on assignment. As much as I hate to admit it, it was rather fun and an interesting cultural experience- taken with a grain of salt.
Here's a few cute things that marked my week- one of the most hectic weeks I've had in a long time, but I am loving my new schedule and routine.

Floral-print dress for spring

Dance shoes + mint green shoelaces

Heart latte art from Streamer Coffee Company

I posed for Polaroids (um, Instax) at the Kawaii Matsuri

I finally met those guys- they marked my teenage years.